Traffic-clogged Dar was one of the biggest culture shocks so far, especially after having been off the beaten track for a while. We were warned that it could take a couple of hours to drive through the city, and sure enough the urban sprawl seemed to extend for miles before we even got anywhere near to the centre. Driving in Dar requires superhuman hazard awareness skills.
It was a relief to reach our destination that night. We camped on a fenced off section of beach, ready for our ferry crossing to Zanzibar the following morning. It was a beautiful and tranquil bay, but we were given a gentle reminder that you just can’t walk around on the beach alone (as a white foreigner anyway). I’m pretty sure that this was the first time in my life that I had ever camped on a beach and fallen asleep to the soothing sound of waves breaking on the shore.