From an organisational point of view, the Kwando regime was far more regimented, and at times reminiscent of a school trip (such as morning wake-up calls, in the form of vigorous tent shaking!) Overall, though, the more structured approach made a refreshing change, and the fact that nobody became ill on this part of the trip justified such measures as enforced hand-washing before cooking. The leaders were more integrated with the group, shared their duties more effectively and acted as guides rather than just organisers, which made a significant difference to our appreciation of the surroundings. Eyebrows were raised on the first evening when they announced that women wouldn’t be allowed to carry anything heavy including tents on their tour. What a marvellous idea. Sod the sisterhood, I have a bad back!